News — The Week in Patterning Storyboard

This little gem of a 1947 Butterick pattern is featured in Threads Magazine, issue #188 (Dec. '16/Jan. '17) Pattern Review on page 24.  So, I am making this post the pattern tour for it!  I issued it in my multi-size series last year for 32" to 48" bust:   The cut-out details at the front of each shoulder create a flattering, almost sweetheart neckline.  The original pattern instructs making these cutouts with narrow hand-rolled hems (illustrated below).  I noted in my instructions to face the cut-outs with silk organza, using narrow seam allowances to get stable, crisp openings. There are...

People ask about re-sizing patterns, so I thought I'd give a little about that here. The general rule I give in some of the patterns I offer is as follows (this example shows a 1947 Vogue Dress): To grade a pattern 'With a long straight edge, draw vertical lines down the length of each piece as shown in the accompanying illustration.  Make sure each line is drawn to coordinate with the placement of the lines you draw on each adjacent pattern piece (click images below for larger view).   Cut along these lines.  Then, take the total difference between the...

I respond to 'Unsuccessful search terms' I observe in my web site admin page by filling in what I can throughout the site.   This week, 'perforation meaning' was one such term, so this is a post to address just what those little punched markings in your vintage pattern can mean. The first individually packaged sewing patterns marketed for the home sewer came in the form of un-printed, pre-cut tissue pieces.  Each piece was factory punched with perforations indicating the pattern piece letter or number (a few pattern makers, such as Vogue punched the entire name of the piece into...

In constant effort to keep pattern prices down, I eliminated two of the 16 pieces this original McCall pattern had.  Since the long and short sleeve pieces were identically shaped, I  superimposed the two sleeve styles so my version has 14 pieces (thus, reducing paper and ink cost). For as much wearing ease in this style, McCall did some clever moves to shape and fit the design in an overall flattering manner.  Using a curved shoulder yoke piece at the front allows soft gathering of the bodice front over the bust.  The omission of darts keeps the kimono style very...

I recently filled an order which included this 1957 Vogue halter gown: Made me think this is a good time to re-visit a post I did summer of 2015 where I began addressing the differences in Vogue re-issued vintage patterns and their original counterparts.   Per the text I originally published in the Blogspot piece, '13 years ago, I documented my original Vogue Halter Gown pattern #9180 and being that it is a vintage pattern in public domain, I made reproductions of it available for purchase.  Not long after, Vogue came out with the 'same' design in their Vintage Vogue series (now out...