News — 1940's

Now available in sizes 32" to 46" bust, is Vogue's 1949 Ensemble.  Originally meant as lounge wear, the tunic and trousers could TOTALLY be worn as a casual outfit by today's standards!     The sash which ties around the waist and knots at left front was originally referred to as a 'gridle' and I chose to re-name the 'coat' a 'tunic' for Vogue being inconsistent with how they name that part of the ensemble in the original pattern. Per the text to describe the style, 'The flared lower section of tunic joins double-breasted top at waistline and has notched...

Simplicity originally designated this a dress & coat pattern.  I refer to the coat as a redingote as I feel its single-button-at-waist closing really aids in revealing the dress underneath (would also be smashing with trousers underneath)!   In testing this design, I found much more ease in the redingote sleeve cap than I prefer.  It may be advisable to reduce some of the sleeve cap height no matter what size you are sewing, but see what your muslin says about that (of course).  That goes ditto for the dress sleeve. The collarless redingote is clean, yet brimming with details.  Princess...

A little food for thought as you unwind for the holidays and prepare for the New Year, I have posted my next challenge well in advance as I have largely advertised it in print! Everything 40's fashion is-FABULOUS!  Suits were highly tailored for men AND women, drapery on an evening gown lent luxe details, even the humble and comfortable at-home house dress was loaded with interesting lines; everything was so well fitting. Projects may not be started earlier than 12:01 a.m. EST on February 1, 2017 although a muslin for fitting may be created any time before the challenge kick-off...

As everything in life, sewing patterns are a balancing act-especially VINTAGE patterns! After being folded for who-knows-how-long after having been treated who-knows-how by the one(s) who previously owned it and after warping the ease in the fragile tissue paper to create as careful a draft as possible, chances are a vintage pattern will be un-balanced at best. When I first started drafting from vintage originals back in the 90's, I did so verbatim.  That is, I drafted each piece as it lay on my table (after CAREFUL iron pressing) without matching the balance between front and back, side seams, etc....

I fashioned an apron from View B of my pattern A40-3250 (originally a 1945 Butterick). I did so thinking that upon entering a vintage apron challenge that we had to actually sew from the apron pattern we were posting (this was not the case).  Understand that I was in the sewing challenge frame of mind at the time just having concluded my EvaDress Pattern Challenge.  Regardless, I have a fabulous apron in fabric I have been drawn to for a few months! As I posted in the challenge: 'Had I been able to source the contrast fabric I wanted for...